In a quaint neighborhood garden in London, Ontario, a variety of vegetables from the Depression era are flourishing, planted with the intention of addressing food insecurity. Anne Marie Allen tends to her plot at the Blackfriars Community Garden, which she has designated as a “Depression Era Garden.”
Having grown up on a farm outside the city where she cultivated and preserved food, Allen, now retired as a minister, delved into the history of crops grown during a time of widespread Canadian food scarcity. Contrary to common belief that the Depression began with the stock market crash, Allen points out that it originated during the war due to severe food shortages.
During the First World War, essential food items were redirected to support the war efforts, resulting in empty shelves for many. Allen discovered that people resorted to growing their own sustenance, opting for unconventional crops not commonly found in today’s markets. Examples include Good-King-Henry, a hardy leafy green suitable for year-round harvesting.
In addition to resilient leafy greens, perennial root vegetables such as earth chestnuts and skirrets were popular choices back then due to their ease of preservation. Skirrets, known for their sweet flavor and starchy roots, served as a delightful alternative during times of sugar scarcity.
This spring, Allen carefully planted these heritage crops in her garden, complete with informative signs detailing their potential uses. Emphasizing longevity over taste, she prioritized crops that could be stored for extended periods. Notably, she showcased a Danish Ballhead cabbage known for its ability to stay fresh for up to eight months.
To source these uncommon varieties, Allen turned to Small Island Seed Co. in Vancouver Island, a small business specializing in rare, cold-resistant perennial crops. Richard Kuehnel, the company’s owner, expressed his enthusiasm for the growing interest in traditional perennial crops, attributing their decline to modern farm practices that may not favor labor-intensive harvesting methods.
Despite challenges in profitability and cultivation, Kuehnel remains optimistic about the resurgence of these heritage crops, noting the increasing accessibility of information online. As Allen eagerly anticipates the harvest of her new vegetables, she looks forward to tasting the skirrets, a delicacy she has yet to try.
Encouraging community engagement, Allen hopes her gardening endeavors will inspire others to explore these forgotten varieties and embrace sustainable food practices. Ultimately, she envisions a renewed interest in these heritage crops, sparking curiosity and appreciation for the flavors of the past.
